I started surfing because I was tired of running. And a few friends raved about it. And it seemed as good an exploit as any for an early mid-life crisis. Surfing would leave me slim and tanned rather than with a paunch and a Porsche (I can’t afford the Porsche anyway), I reckoned.

 But soon I discovered that there is far more to surfing than sun-bleached hair, a bronzed body and drifting aimlessly telling everyone who cares to listen (and some of those who don’t) how ‘stoked’ your are.

 Every surfer you meet – be it on a board in the Gonubie line-up or landlocked in the Clapham O’Neill’s – is infected with the same obsession. Beautiful beaches and fitness are only a couple of aspests to surfing – the ocean has so much (everything – I would argue) to teach you.

You don’t have to be good or fit or particularly brave (although they do all help) to surf – all you have to do is paddle out.  

 The Wave Within documents my voyage of discovery. I hope it can mirror or inspire yours.


  1. Hi Dave

    What a lovely piece of writing.
    I long to live by the sea and this makes it even more inviting.

    Pam Goulding

    • thanks pam, please do follow…i’ll be posting once a week…dave

  2. David,

    I wanted to make sure that you knew that as I wrote today’s “Something Happened,” you were in my thoughts.


  3. Beautiful. So pleased to have found your blog x

  4. I can’t wait to show my boyfriend your blog! He is an avid surfer and will love reading about all the locations you’ve been to and your stories. Thanks!

    • thanks for stopping by, by all means show your boyfriend. but better yet – start surfing – you won’t regret it…

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